Sunday, June 21, 2009

Shop Review: Stauf's

Our inaugural review is of Stauf's Coffee, a twenty year veteran of the coffee community in Colombus, Ohio. Our initial impression was positive as we were impressed by a plethora of quality equipment in their extensive retail area. Lots of Chemex', drip brewers, and legitimate grinders lined the walls. After passing by a well worn but beautiful Probat roaster and a do-it-yourself Clover machine, the anticipation began to build. This was augmented by a pleasant aesthetic and a diverse and seemingly well-contented clientele. Unfortunately this proved to be the climax of our experience...

I (Kenny) was the first to order with a simple double shot of espresso in ceramic, the barista informed me (after being asked) that they had 2 different offerings. One of these he referred to as "fruity, I guess?" so I took him up on the offer and went with his recommendation. I received my shots in a cappuccino sized cup (6-8oz) which at this point wasn't a big surprise. Before going into the quality of the shots, I feel the need to share that the bar was equipped with a 3-group La Marzocco, convex tamper, and several quality grinders (rebranded Mazzer Super Jolly, 2 Rancilio MD40's possibly MD80's). It all looked somewhat heavily used but seemingly in perfect working order.

The shots... firstly the layer of crema was nearly non-existent, thin, ultra blonde, just unimpressive. The aroma was stale and bitter, shots were pulled lungo (3-4oz). I was weary to even take that first sip; once I went for it, the taste was lacking in several ways. No complexity (even if the beans had potential, the pull would have done it no justice) and something of a mixture between bitterness and under-extraction. My first words after tasting were literally, "To call this fruity is shameful."

I (Michael) opted to try the caramel latte and shared a cup of Guatemala SHB with my brother David. Both were subpar. I was appalled to see the steaming method for the latte: wand sunk to the bottom of the pitcher for the duration, finished by blasting the top for some foam. The result? Burnt milk that was simultaneously flat and too foamy. The caramel flavor was from a syrup instead of a sauce and did little to improve the bitter espresso. The Guatemala was the best drink of the three, but still disappointing. The potential was eclipsed by a thin body that offered little substance. The rich acidity that should have been prominent was painfully absent, most likely due to improper brewing (not enough coffee, and not hot enough water). Overall, it lacked a pleasing aroma and tasted more like a cup of coffee found in a cubicle than a coffee shop.

Our conclusion: Stauf's has a trendy atmosphere with a low quality product and a poorly trained staff. Great place to study if you bring a thermos.

Grade: 42/100

Sunday, June 14, 2009